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  • What mount is right for me?

    There isn’t one mount that’s best for everybody. The right choice depends on what you’re shooting, how you practice, and where you set up your targets.

    We recommend certain mounts alongside our targets because they're typically the best fit and the most popular choices. That doesn't mean they're your only options. Here's how I'd choose.

    The short answer

    How you shoot Where I'd start
    Mostly rifle shooting; want a loud ring Gong hanger kit with pipe and SR500+ hooks
    Rifle shooting; permanent range or difficult terrain T-post hook hanger
    Defensive-style pistol drills; rapid follow-up shots Stable 2×4-based mount or an ATLAS Mount
    Reactive animal target with a vital-zone flapper Target-specific legs or stable mounting system

    These are starting points, not hard-and-fast rules. Check each target and mount for compatibility before ordering.

    Rifle shooting: let it swing and ring

    If I'm mostly shooting rifles at a regular gong or silhouette, I like a target that's free to move. That movement gives you visual feedback when you connect, and letting the steel vibrate freely helps produce the loud, satisfying ring that makes shooting steel so much fun, especially at distance.

    My personal favorite is our gong hanger setup using pipe and SR500+ steel hooks. The hooks allow the target to swing and resonate without rubber or chain clamped tightly to the plate. They're also built from tough target steel, so they're well suited to a shooting-range environment.

    If your range layout or terrain makes a pipe stand inconvenient, our T-post hook mounts are another good option. They're especially handy when you can leave your posts in place.

    Defensive pistol practice: keep the target more stable

    For quick, repeated pistol shots, I generally favor a mount built around a 2×4 or on our ATLAS stands. A target that isn't swinging all over the place is easier to use for rapid follow-up drills, and a wood upright or the smooth front of the ATLAS stand is a more forgiving thing to accidentally strike than an exposed steel t-post. A bullet striking the T shaped post can create unpredictable fragmentation or ricochets, including material coming back toward the firing line.

    Whatever mount you choose, follow the target's minimum-distance and ammunition guidelines. A stable mount does not make shooting steel at an otherwise unsafe distance acceptable.

    T-post hangers: a great option in the right setting

    T-post hooks are simple, versatile, and especially useful for a more permanent range. They can make setup easier on uneven ground or in spots where a conventional stand isn't ideal. They also let a regular target move and ring quite well.

    The tradeoff is that the t-post does get chewed up over time (Although I've had my personal range setup for years without issue) and if you need to take your targets with you at the end of the day, pulling t-posts isn't that much fun. If you primarily shoot rifles from appropriate distances and want to keep targets positioned across a pasture or established range, t-posts may be exactly what you need.

    Why I prefer steel hooks over rubber belts

    Rubber belt hangers certainly have their fans, and they have their uses. But if getting a clear, loud ring is important to you, I'm not a big fan of them. Rubber tends to absorb some of the target's vibration. That vibration is what produces the sound you hear downrange, so dampening it can take away some of the best feedback steel offers. Although I don't sell chain, it does the same thing and dampens the ring of the targets. 

    That's why I usually reach for our SR500+ hook mounts on standard gongs and silhouettes. I want the target to move, vibrate, and ring rather than having that sound muffled by something bolted to it.

    Reactive targets are a little different

    With a reactive animal target, the goal isn't necessarily to get the entire target swinging. I want the body to stay relatively stable so you can immediately tell the difference between a body hit and a hit on the vital-zone flapper. When that flapper moves, it should be obvious. For these targets, the product-specific recommended legs or mounting system are generally where I'd start but under special circumstances, several of the options mentioned above will work as well.

    A few important safety reminders

    • Use only target/mount combinations intended to work together; don't assume every hanger fits every plate.
    • Follow the published minimum shooting distance, ammunition, velocity, and energy limits for your target. Never shoot steel-core or armor-piercing ammunition at steel targets.
    • Position targets and exposed mounting hardware to minimize unpredictable splatter. Keep a suitable backstop behind every target.
    • Inspect plates and hardware for pitting, bending, cracks, loose parts, or other damage before shooting. Stop using damaged equipment.

    Still not sure?

    If you're torn between a couple of options, get in touch. Tell us which target you have, whether you mostly shoot rifle or pistol, and how you plan to set it up. We'll help point you toward a mount that makes sense for your range, not just the one that happens to be listed first.

    Call or text us at +1 605-868-8087
    E-Mail us at sendit@atlastargetworks.com